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Olivia Zabludowicz from Shirakawa to Gokayama back to Tokyo
28 April 2026
The following day, we continued on to the towns of Shirakawa and Gokayama
The final visit was to Nousaku, a tin factory and workshop. It was an incredible experience to see the precision of the casting processes and the way traditional techniques are still actively used and developed within contemporary production
We were given a private tour of the foundries, watching craftsmen at work and observing the techniques used in tin production
There was also a workshop at the end where we could make small tin hashioki. It was a simple, hands-on process and a lot of fun to take part in
Then I returned to Tokyo for the night. At the train station, I came across a coffee vending machine that felt like a dream
The following day I visited Kodai Ujiie’s studio in Tajimi
Lux Feminae will be showing his work in September at Tokyo Gendai
His process is distinctive in the way he uses the traditional vase across a range of sizes. Their uniqueness lies in the textures he achieves through glazing and firing, as well as his distinctive colour palette
Before I left Tajimi, I went to the Mosaic Tile Museum, which was kind of crazy, the exterior and i nterior are all clay and sand
Tajimi is known as the center of production for Mino-yaki ceramics
I made my way back to Tokyo and we visited the YBA exhibition at the National Art Center, Tokyo, which felt especially meaningful, seeing so many of the artists I grew up with brought together in one space in Tokyo. The homage to Tracey Emin throughout the exhibition was particularly special
Wolfgang Tillmans and many more
The National Art Center, Tokyo, designed by Kisho Kurokawa, was conceived to feel like a museum in a forest, and there was something so calming about the way the architecture seemed to flow with its surroundings
The last day in Tokyo, and the final day of my trip, I went to visit Takashi Murakami’s studio.
With Lauren and Cy, about one hour away from Tokyo
It was incredible to see how organised and professional the assistants and studios were. There was a dedicated section for every aspect of Takashi’s practice, including areas focused on AI and music videos
Visiting Takashi’s studio, along with the other studios, and speaking with the artists, I learned so much about how artists are working in Japan. As natural disasters become increasingly common, there is a growing preference among artists and collectors for smaller, more portable works rather than large-scale pieces, so that in the event of an emergency they can be easily taken to safety
Takashi and I. Thank you so much for following along on my takeover — I had the most incredible tour. Kore de oshimai